[.qml+python3] How to determine whether icons are enabled?

Use kconfig to get the value (if any) of the ToolButtonStyle key in the Toolbar style group of the global config. If the value isn’t “TextOnly”, then there are icons somewhere in the buttons.

Note that the setting is going away in Plasma 6 because its scope is ill-defined and it doesn’t affect more places than it does. So I wouldn’t recommend depending on it for the future.

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